June 27, 2017 at 9:22 pm #3326
Besides my back killing me! Why am I not seeing my break facets I realize that there’s not much of a difference between 45° and 43 but I keep blowing past them or something I don’t know ? It’s been about 15 years since I’ve done one .
MarkJune 27, 2017 at 10:17 pm #3327
I’m not sure what you mean. Are the breaks and mains only 2 degrees apart? What design are you cutting?June 27, 2017 at 10:51 pm #3328
Hey Alan thanks I’m just trying to cut up brilliant BrownJune 27, 2017 at 10:52 pm #3329
I meant brilliant roundJune 28, 2017 at 4:11 pm #3330
If you cut in the order breaks (45) to centerpoint, girdle, then mains (43), you just cut the mains to meet the girdle. Does that help?June 28, 2017 at 4:51 pm #3331
I’m trying to cut the 16 break facetsJune 28, 2017 at 9:56 pm #3333
Cut the breaks first, just to a temporary centerpoint. Then chain cut the girdle, and then cut the mains to meet the girdle. The mains will cut away the temporary centerpoint, so you’ll lose a bit of height, but it’s easy to get everything right. If you cut the mains first, it can be hard to place the breaks.June 28, 2017 at 10:09 pm #3337
Too late already cut mains. I MadOut 1200 grit should I go right to a polish to do the breaks ? Don’t have a 3000 gritJune 28, 2017 at 10:11 pm #3338
Sorry about the messed up words darn voice to text . I hate texting !!!June 28, 2017 at 11:19 pm #3339
If you don’t have a prepolish lap, there’s not much choice 🙂
Try going to polish. Depending on the material and what sort of lap your 1200 is, it may be easy, or it may take forever.June 28, 2017 at 11:50 pm #3342
Im going to try a 3000 grit. thanks you right the polish would take forever but at least I can see it form
MarkJune 30, 2017 at 2:47 pm #3343
The breaks are ALWAYS the first pavillion and crown facets cut. The mains will normally cut away most of the breaks leaving just a small triangle at the girdle.June 30, 2017 at 3:02 pm #3344
Thank you I’ll try doing that next time! Both pieces of information were really helpful thanks guys.
MarkSeptember 9, 2017 at 2:55 pm #3490
Always? I cut my girdles first, then mains, then breaks, then stars. Trying to cut to a temporary centerpoint for breaks is problematic when cutting the crown, as you may not have enough material to reach a centerpoint. I usually use a 600 or 1200 lap to cut the breaks, (depending on stone size), and cut them to where they just meet at the center of the main.
When cutting small round brilliants (pavilion first) I usually leave the stone in 8 sides until after transfer, then cut the 16 girdle facets after transferring. Makes aligning the girdle to the lap a lot easier, and the larger facet makes it more accurate.
My steps work like this: cut a flat temporary table and dop to it.
Adjust dop in quill to your liking and lock it down.
Cut pavilion mains to centerpoint.
Cut 8 girdle facets, corresponding to main facet indexes.
Cut 16 break facets.
Depending on size of stone, transfer now, or cut 16 girdle facets.
After transfer, cut 16 girdle facets, if you haven’t already.
Cut 8 main facets, girdle will be uneven, bottom of main at center will be girdle thickness.
Cut 16 break facets (600 or 1200 lap, depending on size). Breaks should just meet at center of main, and girdle should now be level.
Cut 8 star facets, lower tips just meeting break facet upper tips.
Polish stars, mains, and breaks in that order, and girdles if you haven’t already.
Cut and polish table, however you do it on your machine.September 9, 2017 at 3:03 pm #3491
Alternate sequence for crown:
Cut 16 girdles first if not already done.
Cut 16 breaks, striving for perfectly level girdle. I find when cutting the crown, I don’t usually have enough material for these to reach a temporary centerpoint.
Cut mains, just reaching girdle.
Cut stars, just reaching breaks.
Cut table, just to stars meetpoints.
You must be logged in to reply to this topic.