Forums Beginner Questions Break facets

17 replies, 4 voices Last updated by tucsonbear 6 years, 8 months ago
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    • #3326

      mark
      Participant
      @Mark

      Besides my back killing me! Why am I not seeing my break facets I realize that there’s not much of a difference between 45° and 43 but I keep blowing past them or something I don’t know ? It’s been about 15 years since I’ve done one .
      Mark

    • #3327

      Alan Balmer
      Keymaster
      @alanbalmer

      I’m not sure what you mean. Are the breaks and mains only 2 degrees apart? What design are you cutting?

    • #3328

      mark
      Participant
      @Mark

      Hey Alan thanks I’m just trying to cut up brilliant Brown

    • #3329

      mark
      Participant
      @Mark

      I meant brilliant round

    • #3330

      Alan Balmer
      Keymaster
      @alanbalmer

      If you cut in the order breaks (45) to centerpoint, girdle, then mains (43), you just cut the mains to meet the girdle. Does that help?

    • #3331

      mark
      Participant
      @Mark

      I’m trying to cut the 16 break facets

    • #3333

      Alan Balmer
      Keymaster
      @alanbalmer

      Cut the breaks first, just to a temporary centerpoint. Then chain cut the girdle, and then cut the mains to meet the girdle. The mains will cut away the temporary centerpoint, so you’ll lose a bit of height, but it’s easy to get everything right. If you cut the mains first, it can be hard to place the breaks.

    • #3337

      mark
      Participant
      @Mark

      Too late already cut mains. I MadOut 1200 grit should I go right to a polish to do the breaks ? Don’t have a 3000 grit

    • #3338

      mark
      Participant
      @Mark

      Sorry about the messed up words darn voice to text . I hate texting !!!

    • #3339

      Alan Balmer
      Keymaster
      @alanbalmer

      If you don’t have a prepolish lap, there’s not much choice 🙂
      Try going to polish. Depending on the material and what sort of lap your 1200 is, it may be easy, or it may take forever.

    • #3342

      mark
      Participant
      @Mark

      Im going to try a 3000 grit. thanks you right the polish would take forever but at least I can see it form
      Mark

    • #3343

      landrus60
      Participant
      @landrus60

      The breaks are ALWAYS the first pavillion and crown facets cut. The mains will normally cut away most of the breaks leaving just a small triangle at the girdle.

    • #3344

      mark
      Participant
      @Mark

      Thank you I’ll try doing that next time! Both pieces of information were really helpful thanks guys.
      Mark

    • #3490

      tucsonbear
      Participant
      @Tucsonbear

      Always? I cut my girdles first, then mains, then breaks, then stars. Trying to cut to a temporary centerpoint for breaks is problematic when cutting the crown, as you may not have enough material to reach a centerpoint. I usually use a 600 or 1200 lap to cut the breaks, (depending on stone size), and cut them to where they just meet at the center of the main.
      When cutting small round brilliants (pavilion first) I usually leave the stone in 8 sides until after transfer, then cut the 16 girdle facets after transferring. Makes aligning the girdle to the lap a lot easier, and the larger facet makes it more accurate.

      My steps work like this: cut a flat temporary table and dop to it.
      Adjust dop in quill to your liking and lock it down.
      Cut pavilion mains to centerpoint.
      Cut 8 girdle facets, corresponding to main facet indexes.
      Cut 16 break facets.
      Depending on size of stone, transfer now, or cut 16 girdle facets.
      Transfer.
      After transfer, cut 16 girdle facets, if you haven’t already.
      Cut 8 main facets, girdle will be uneven, bottom of main at center will be girdle thickness.
      Cut 16 break facets (600 or 1200 lap, depending on size). Breaks should just meet at center of main, and girdle should now be level.
      Cut 8 star facets, lower tips just meeting break facet upper tips.
      Polish stars, mains, and breaks in that order, and girdles if you haven’t already.
      Cut and polish table, however you do it on your machine.

    • #3491

      tucsonbear
      Participant
      @Tucsonbear

      Alternate sequence for crown:
      Cut 16 girdles first if not already done.
      Cut 16 breaks, striving for perfectly level girdle. I find when cutting the crown, I don’t usually have enough material for these to reach a temporary centerpoint.
      Cut mains, just reaching girdle.
      Cut stars, just reaching breaks.
      Cut table, just to stars meetpoints.

    • #3492

      Alan Balmer
      Keymaster
      @alanbalmer

      I don’t usually cut material that valuable 🙂
      For quartz angles, cutting the breaks to CP first loses about .024*width in pavilion height, or 0.24mm for a 10mm stone. This will vary somewhat if you change the angles. As Long & Steele suggests, you can stop a bit short of cutting to CP. If you cut a level girdle, it will work out. For a beginner, the meetpoint method is easier, and the material loss is small.

    • #3493

      tucsonbear
      Participant
      @Tucsonbear

      Not really a question of material value, I cut my pavilion mains, then girdles, for max diameter. Leaving just enough material for the crown. LOL! Although I have to admit occasionally adjusting my crown angles when I didn’t leave enough!

    • #3494

      tucsonbear
      Participant
      @Tucsonbear

      Yesterday, I finished a 15mm citrine in 09.037 square semaphore cut. Did not need to fudge angles, but getting a table on there was a near thing!
      BTW, this is great cut for light colored materials, very flashy with good dispersion. I did this same cut in a 10mm dark Four Peaks amethyst last week, and it was not nearly as impressive, guess I need to save my dark amethyst for smaller stones.

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