Forums Laps Resin laps

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6 replies, 3 voices Last updated by scottwkelley 1 year, 4 months ago
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  • #3023

    scottwkelley
    Participant
    @scottwkelley

    I recently purchased Lightning laps, 1200, cerium oxide, Brutus and 50k. So far I am impressed. Anyone else using these hi-tech laps?

    #5009

    gemmakermz
    Participant
    @gemmakermz

    scott the only thing that worries me is the resin can slowly wear and not remain flat. remeber the stone is MUCH harder than the resin and cuttings can wear out the resin. when polishing using same the same can happen. even with the tin and other polishing laps this can happen. i quizzed them maker of the batt lap, a better than 90 persent tin and an alloy to harden it up so surface resists surface change, and it has 2 sides to use. other than cabbing i dont use loose diamond grit or compounds. for faceting hand charged diamond lap are very pass’a/ancient. diamond pressed in can come back out and contaminate very easy. i don’t recommend hand charged nor compound charges lap for polishing. as for polishing the very fine diamond powders are usually not a contaminating problem rather a polishing thing. used 50,000 diamond on tin is extremely fast polishing. i’ve seen facets done all the way with resin and sooner or later you can see rounded and/or out of flat facets

    #5015

    Tom Mitchell
    Keymaster
    @tommitchell

    Scott,

    I do most of my fun work with lightning Lap products. The only metal laps that I use any more are coarse toppers (180, 260, 320 or 360) After using the coarse metal laps I do the rest of the facets with D-Lite laps starting with the 325, which actually leaves a surface that is similar to a 600 metal lap and then on to a D-Lite 600 which leaves a surface similar to a 1200 metal lap and then the D-Lite 1200 which leaves a surface similar to a 3000 metal lap. I then go on to polish from there. Plus to save money all of these laps are toppers.

    I have been using these laps for about 3 years now and I am definitely a believer. One of the great things about them is that when they seem to loose their aggressiveness or when they seem to be leaving scratches, I can refresh the lap surface by wrapping a piece of wet/dry sand paper (400, 600, or 800 grit) around a block of wood, then turn the lap on and give it plenty of water, while I gently drag the sand paper across the lap. When the water turns the color of the lap remove the sand paper and rinse the lap thoroughly and you basically have a brand new surface.

    If he lap ever wares out, send it back to the manufacturer and he will send you a new one at a discounted price. I have not yet warn one out, but I had one where the grit became delaminated and the manufacturer sent me a replacement for no charge.

    These are great laps and I know several people who use them to cut competition stones.

    I highly recommend them.

    Tom Mitchell
    Mitchell Jewelry Studio

    #5016

    Tom Mitchell
    Keymaster
    @tommitchell

    Scott,

    I do most of my fun work with lightning Lap products. The only metal laps that I use any more are coarse toppers (180, 260, 320 or 360) After using the coarse metal laps I do the rest of the facets with D-Lite laps starting with the 325, which actually leaves a surface that is similar to a 600 metal lap and then on to a D-Lite 600 which leaves a surface similar to a 1200 metal lap and then the D-Lite 1200 which leaves a surface similar to a 3000 metal lap. I then go on to polish from there. Plus to save money all of these laps are toppers.

    I have been using these laps for about 3 years now and I am definitely a believer. One of the great things about them is that when they seem to loose their aggressiveness or when they seem to be leaving scratches, I can refresh the lap surface by wrapping a piece of wet/dry sand paper (400, 600, or 800 grit) around a block of wood, then turn the lap on and give it plenty of water, while I gently drag the sand paper across the lap. When the water turns the color of the lap remove the sand paper and rinse the lap thoroughly and you basically have a brand new surface.

    If he lap ever wares out, send it back to the manufacturer and he will send you a new one at a discounted price. I have not yet warn one out, but I had one where the grit became delaminated and the manufacturer sent me a replacement for no charge.

    These are great laps and I know several people who use them to cut competition stones.

    I highly recommend them.

    Tom Mitchell
    Florida

    #5019

    scottwkelley
    Participant
    @scottwkelley

    Thanks Tom, I love these laps. Have you tried the natural lap with either of the 100k or 200k Beast polish? I love my 3k,14k and the all time coolest ever 50k. Lightning fast too.

    #7903

    gemmakermz
    Participant
    @gemmakermz

    i just use the inexpensive toppers from china. depending on size of stone the grit size to start to rough in shape but then i go to 1200 topper then direct to Tin with 50k at SLOW speed, water onlywith drip rate at one drop every 25-35 sec. just enough to make a muddy slur. average polishing time per facet 5 sec. each. although the gearloose batts and others tins work i finally have started making my own. i have several out there and the guys really like it. their like the original 70’s crystalite and mdrs tins being 98-99 percent tin alloy.

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    #8979

    scottwkelley
    Participant
    @scottwkelley

    Sold, how do I get one of your tin lap, sir? 8″?

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