June 7, 2019 at 6:57 am #5458
I am look for a transfer jig. Any advice on what I should look into before buying one?June 7, 2019 at 11:52 am #5459
I’m a big fan of the PolyMetric transfer stands… I have three of ’em.
Attachments:You must be logged in to view attached files.June 7, 2019 at 12:44 pm #5461
I also vote for the Polymetric. Coincidentally, I also have three of them 🙂June 9, 2019 at 8:24 pm #5464
Thanks a ton. I shall take a look into these.June 11, 2019 at 12:16 pm #5465
Alan, I have three of them as well.June 13, 2019 at 2:26 am #5470
1. Do you have a faceting machine that has a keying system? If so, do you want to use keying for transfers?
2. Can you wait for awhile? There is the possibility of some new adapters coming onto the market.
3. How much are you willing to pay for an adapter?
The price varies from around $150 USD to over $600 USD.June 19, 2019 at 6:36 pm #5479
I do do not have a keyed system. I’m relatively new to faceting and still feeling my way around the benefits of keyed and non-keyed systems. I bought my machine prior to reading up on this topic, however I may switch o a keyed system should I find that it would be of great help.
I have engaged Poly-metric Instruments for a transfer jig already, however please do inform me when the new adapters become available. I’d bee keen to explore my options.
Thanks everyone.June 19, 2019 at 11:35 pm #5481
OK, now that you have a transfer adapter, you are set. There are many opinions about keyed versus non-keyed dop sticks. I use a UT V5 with keyed dop sticks and usually use them as keyed dop sticks. They do help me get really close on transfers and that speeds up getting to cutting on the crown. Since, I don’t know what kind of machine you are using, it’s not something that I can recommend. Generic transfer jigs are usually not keyed. Machine specific transfer jigs can be used non-keyed with any dop stick of the same diameter.June 20, 2019 at 5:51 am #5482
You make a good point. Something I stumbled upon yesterday following a transfer. Its my assumption that a slight misalignment while transferring, would propagate the error throughout the crown, even if corrected a lot of time is spent on trying to align the pavilion and crown facets. Am I correct in assuming this is al least one of the problems keyed dops are seeking to solve? If there is any literature you could point me towards to glean further insight, I would very much appreciate that.
I’m making use of UT V2. I bought the machine from 2nd hand, and the spindle doesn’t appear to have a alignment. Its function rather as a late collet, tightening around the dop when turn clockwise. I did however receive some keyed tops as a bonus from the previous owner, which leads me to think the spindle could be replaced with one that is keyed?
Thanks a ton in advance.June 21, 2019 at 1:02 am #5483
I can’t over tout the keyed dop sticks. They are fine and the default on the UT dops. Yes, the keyed transfer jig does really reduce the error. The UT V2 with the collet is one of the pre-keyed quill units. It is pretty expensive to change over to the keyed spindle ($1,250 USD). So, if you are OK with the collet, I’d just not get too concerned. If you pick a big enough facet to align with on the girdle, it doesn’t take long to adjust to line up the crown facets with the girdle.June 21, 2019 at 2:49 am #5484
Thanks a ton!
I’ll have to work with what I’ve got for now. I will keep in mind you suggestions. I hope you don’t mind me reaching out for further direction and advice as I proceed with this hobby.
Again, thank you for sharing your knowledge.June 26, 2019 at 1:53 pm #5495
As I mentioned above, I have three PolyMetric transfer fixtures that support two faceters in my shop. However, I don’t use indexing when transferring.
I simply set the index at one of the girdle facet indexes and the angle to ninety degrees… leaving the dop setting “loose” in the quill. I then gently lower the head until the girdle facet just touches a master lap. Since the stone is not tightened in the quill, one can simply hold the stone in position and secure the dop in its new position, perfectly indexed.
If, by chance, I very slightly misaligned the dop, it is easy to identify and correct. Simply make a cut at the first P1 facet (SRB). As the facet is approaching the girdle one can see if it is not perfectly aligned with the girdle facet. If so, simply “tweak” the cheater a bit and continue cutting… that “tweak” will remain in place for all the crown facets to follow. While seldom necessary, this double-check will become second nature as one gains experience.August 19, 2019 at 12:18 am #5564
hay guy we have been using a transfer block i make. it can take small and large stones. i sell for what it costs me to make plus shipping. the gap is 78 mm and bow at center is 38 mm or compfortable a 65mm diameter stone with use with any dops 2″ or longer, diameter 5/16″ and smaller. we’ve been using them with all our machines, o’brien, mdr, ultra tec, raytech, Lees, etc. i sell for $20 to get my money back, if bigger gap is needed it can be done not much diff in cost. made in one piece so slot is straight in line. with screw down lock downs. email me for pictures firstname.lastname@example.org
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