June 26, 2017 at 3:17 am #3313
I am tired of scratches on my stones and having them look like ebay specials. I have toppers and a D-Lite 3000 for pre-polish. The D-Lite works well but would take an eternity to get to the deep scratches left behind on the 600/1200 toppers from Kingsely.
I’m thinking of getting a Batt Lap and charging one side with 600 and the other with 1200. The only problem is I’ve never had to charge a lap, nor know how to do it. Do Batt laps need a small flow of water/coolant to run for cutting?
The video(s) on the website seem to assume one knows how to do all of this. Any thoughts, resources/videos on this would be helpful.June 26, 2017 at 4:51 am #3315
A lot of people will have these same problems without realizing why. You need to evaluate your cutting procedures first. Cleanliness is the biggest problem, you do not want cross contamination of grit sizes on your laps. So the first thing to do is CLEAN all your laps (soap & water) and also thoroughly clean your machine. Always use new, clean tissues/towels with each lap and clean the stone and machine when done with that grit size. When going from one lap grit to the next make sure you’re taking enough material off to eliminate the previous grit scratches.
You may be doing this already, it’s just a checklist to be sure. I know the feeling of frustration with scratches showing up or not being polished out. If you get a new lap DO NOT charge both sides of the same lap. This will invite contamination and will be a never ending source of frustration for you. Try cleaning everything first before investing in a new lap, no sense spending money if you don’t need to.June 26, 2017 at 2:12 pm #3320
Cutting grit BATT (assuming you use the new Pandemonium sticks) works well with a slow water drip, or even a spray bottle. I would recommend that you use 600 for fine cutting, and 3K for prepolish. You shouldn’t need the 1200.
nightrider has it right in emphasizing cleanliness. The toppers, however, are going to give you trouble no matter how clean you are. I wouldn’t use them for anything other than rough preforming. It is possible to use both sides of a BATT if you are careful. Some people use a throw-away coffee filter (with a hole for the spindle) under the lap to help prevent cross-contamination.June 26, 2017 at 7:44 pm #3322
Thanks for taking the time to respond Night and Alan. I have cleaned all used toppers with soapy water, with no luck. I’m also pretty obsessive with keeping my machine clean and free from splashed grit/swarf. I think the bottom line is the quality of the toppers. I’ll probably go with a Batt with 600 on one side and see if that alleviates the problem. Smaller deep colored stones ~1.5ct or less seem to hide the scratches better as I can use the DLite 3000 more effectively to remove scratches on the smaller sized facets. But I’m probably putting more wear on that laps than it was designed for.September 5, 2018 at 5:56 am #4949
i’ve bee buying the china made laps,they have more diamond and are very cheap compared to u.s.a. made. i teach faceting and we use whatever grit size to form our stone then true it up for polish on 1200. we use the batt TIN lap or other TIN laps to polish on. we use VERY slow speeds, about 100rpm to polish and use a good grade of 50,000 diamond powder. applying with a finge to the lap with an extremely SLOW drip of water enough to keep it a muddy slur. i just finished the cutting and polishing of a 206.95 carat pink laser YAG, 8 to 8.5 in hardness with very little problem. i use this same on topaz, spinel,garnet, sunstone, and a quartz egg about 450 carats and most all stones. we use this same lap and diamond system on everything, and all sizes, on 8 different make faceting machines. email@example.comSeptember 5, 2018 at 4:08 pm #4950
” batt TIN lap”
Since I’ve seen this twice now, I’d like to comment that the BATT (TM) lap is a proprietary alloy, with tin as one component. It’s a far cry from plain tin, and several times the hardness, with a much different structure after casting.
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